Viet Cong Tunnels to Cambodian Killing Fields

It's been a good few days of depressing cultural fun. Our last full day in 'Nam was to head to Cu Chi and see the tunnels. It is a massive set of complex tunnels the Viet Cong used in the American/Vietnam war. I went inside a couple to see the living conditions of thousands of Viet Cong for around 20 years! The tunnels were a great experience and seeing examples of the types of traps they used only further added to the gruesomeness of what happened. We had an interesting talk with our guide about the war as well. He sums up what the Vietnamese people think of the war now in two separate categories:

1. The war never happened. He means that a lot of younger generation (18 to 30) in Cambodia now aren't focusing on the war. They have adopted many Western ways of living and enjoy themselves selfishly.

and 2. The war never ended. His example came from his Dad, who fought in the war. He suffered from shell shock and found it difficult to talk about his time there. He, as expected, holds many grudges and although he can see great change in his country; he still lives as he did the majority of his life, in a war.

It was really interesting and insightful not only to hear about what they think of the war now, but also what they think of us as Westerners. We learnt a lot of the Vietnamese way of living and it was a thoroughly enjoyable day out.

The following day we caught the bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia, the 10th country we've visited so far. We arrived mid-afternoon and set about finding a cheap place to stay. We got a room for the four of us for $10 with air con. Next day we had ourselves another cultural day. We went to a museum (can't remember it's name) that used to be a school, which was transformed into the infamous Prison S-21. The museum had an hour long documentary which we watched first. It was very powerful and told the story of a husband and wife who'd been split up and were forced to work in labour camps as slaves. It was very insightful and gave us a great introduction to the rest of the museum. We saw the different cells that were used. Tiny cupboards of rooms where prisoners were chained to the floor. There was an exhibit of skulls that were unearthed from the nearby Killing Fields and pictures of all the known victims. Another exhibition showed pictures from a Swedish tourist who came to Cambodia in 1978 under Pol Pot's regime, which turned out to be propaganda for the rest of the world. It was interesting to see his pictures captioned with thoughts at the time and thoughts now. He was clearly deeply sorry to be part of the propaganda and seeing what we saw that day, it's easy to see why. Obviously we know know that under Pol Pot's regime 2 million people were killed, but at the time very little was actually known of what went on. A lot of the pictures the Swedish man thought were staged for their benefit, such as schools and hospitals.

I really enjoyed the museum but with left with a massive sense of forboding but we decided to go out and see the Killing Fields. It's about 10km's out of town so we got a tuk tuk. The Killing Fields where were the men, women, and children of the work camps were brought for execution. The mass graves had been dug up with a huge collection of skulls, many with teeth still intact, were on open display. Walking around the dug up trenches I nearly trod on what I originally assumed was a rock and realised afterwards was actually a bone protruding from the ground. There was a tree with a sign next to it simply saying "This was where children were beated and executed" and had a pile of bones at its base. It was incredibly sad and upsetting.

We relaxed for the rest of the day, shocked at the days proceedings. That evening we chilled out at a bar which had an open live acoustic thing going on. This one guy was exceptionally talented on his guitar and another girl was exceptionally talented at singing. It made for a really relaxed and enjoyable evening.

The next day we celebrated Alice's birthday. We have decided to go our separate ways since the girls want to spend more time in Thailand and we want to spend more time in Cambodia. So in our last full day together we decided to have an early birthday day for Alice. We went out to the water park... it was pretty rubbish but we had a right laugh. Playing about on the slides and in the pool was a lot of fun. We had some lunch and for dessert bought Alice some chocolate from the Chocolate Shop and gave her her pressies. We gave Alice her card which was blank on the front as we decided we'd draw picture of the days proceedings as the days went on. We got back to the room after buying some cheap and nasty looking vodka to play drinking games, namely ring of fire. Many hours and drinks later we headed out to a bar to have a few more before going to a club. I didn't enjoy the club so much. I felt really awkward and uncomfortable. It was mostly occupied by lots of young Cambodian girls not wearing an awful lot trying to through themselves at you. There were loads of old men who had gone there to pick up young Cambodian girls and I didn't enjoy watching the girls competing over men, presumably for money. Prostitution is a big problem in Phnom Penh and it was really obvious what this place was. Incredibly seedy.

Today I have a hangover. The girls have gone ahead of us to our next destination Kampot. We're going to go tomorrow. Since we have more time in Cambodia and the fact that they left at 6.30am (bearing in mind we didn't get back in until 4.30am), me and Andy decided to allow this day as a hangover day. We're going to meet the girls tomorrow afternoon when we arrive in Kampot, but it will most likely be for the last time. In other, less depressing news, Me, Andy and Briony have booked our flights to Australia!! We fly from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpar Aug 10th and then Kuala Lumpar to Brisbane that evening to arrive the following morning. Now we just need to get work, accommodation and a car. I also sorted out my Australian bank account so that's another think out of the way. I'm looking forward to the rest of my stay in Cambodia but I know I'm going to miss having the girls around.